Having made up my mind land of New Zea per land, and having suaded my to visit the is friend Mr. Smpngement for the any me, we made an arra passage wi hand to accoth Captain Kig, bidd Governor Macquarie, and ing adieu ent, of the brto our friendin aOth, 182 few hours (on October 27) we weres at Sydney, wafted intocifi the c Ocean, great Pa There were several other pboard, who were Zea proceeding to Newland to forassengers on m a Wesleya es Amongst thestablishment at Hokianga. e were a Mn missionaryr. and Mrs. were cause. Thee most enthusiastic in thy had form Hobbs, who erly belongee mhen a war whiission at Whangaroa, wch took plad to the samce amongst tally esta destroyed their blishment; the natives to and, after e var escaieties of suffering, they ped, but londuring greatst every thin sed had on, except the clothes they.
We had a vg they possesery fine winys a gan, and on the 29th we saw net, a sure d for nine dasign we wern dree birdd miles of land, for thess are nevere within a hu seen at a gr fro antim it. True to our cipations, teater distance owards the wand at midater became discoloured, night we safternoon the aw the land. This interesting island, of w got sight, was by tfirst discovered hat eminen which we not and enter prnavently to the igator, Tasman, subsequdiscovery ising Dutch of Van Diemis v42, undoyage from Batavia in 16 er taken byen’s Land. Horder of the or Gnthony Vaneneral of Dutch India, A Diemen, then Govern was one of thrtader taken, for nt and successful ever unit was durine most impog this voyag Howhich Vanlland was discovered, of Diemen’s e that New Land was th to fosland of rm apart, the extensive I New Zealanen supposed d being sup ano post her portion.
ed to form The slight intercourse of th with the natives cala had somitous a tee discoverer srmination, aeraa kind of fted accounts it was then ashion to gnd the exaggive of savagd thuch a chare New Zealanders with sacter for tres, stigmati see achery and the agaiir island was not visitedn for upwa cruelty, that rds of a cene i the veilm mortal Cook drew aside of error an tury, when thd obscurity xple charored land, and rescued thacter of its from this une inhabitants om disciny which its original overers, th from the igne Dutch, hadn th of land wasem. This immense tract imagined thrown up oby Tasman tne iy gave it ths land, and he most unaptle name of o form but o New Zealandeatted) to his resemblance (as was sta own countr, from its gry. In 1770 Cook discovered a access and safe cutt navigation, ing the isla strait of easy nd nearly inkind befog two islands of what hare been im half, thus maagined but it bn travears his name, and is ofteer sed by vone.
This straessels from ales of Cape Hor returning home by way n. New South W In 1827 His Majesty’s ships sed through thi corns strait in pany with Warsprite pathe Volage, guh line of bns, being the first Engli sattle ship w twenty eight hich had evtte maptain Stept. A few years since, Cwart, commer made the aanding a coout red ano of Port Jackson, discove ther strait, lonial vessel which cut of so sepu thern point, making it aarate islandf the extreme that bears h no sea lw almost every year ourers and whis name, and alers are maal ang its end useful discoveries alooasts. king addition.
These islands lie between 18° S. and long. 1 The 66° and 180° E. opening oat. 34° and 4f the land to ere was our dest now opposite, and which ined port, which we wthe accurate had empt the observed, but did not attentrance; a eye of Cook nd it is only arse ship since, when the two stors, the Dro about ten yemedary and loadt, that a sed with spars on the coa small vessel Coromandel, attending onirs altht crossed the bar; butough they those ships ftook soundinows of the largn buoys, the commandere vessels wgs and laid dere afraid ohe eeir goontrance, which proved thd sense, fof attempting tr their great atee undr would have rendered ther taking mdraught of wore hazardouk resi was worth. Yet during my dence in ths than the risis country tels c recrrossed the bar, and ossed it hewo large vessavily laden, lig Harh test accident one the mony, of L without the sondon, 400 they dney, of nother the Elizabeth, of Searly equal tons burden; tonnage bat i mont is not always safe, a few ths after thut in proof this, two schoemst, thouely light draught were logh they woners of extrere both commew the chan who perfectly well knennels throumanded by gh the bar.
liar c vesircumstance that both sels had bet was a sing uen built in None bea, the Herald, a small andutiful craft, ew Zealand; built by ando tthe ere he Church missionaries, w of which belonging t escaped, bus cir wrecumstances attending theck of the ot the disastrouther, called t, I er plac shall relate in their prope. he Enterprise The morning of the 30th w unfavourable, b cleaut it suddenly red up, and as foggy and exhibited tf Hnd a lighokianga right before us, at breeze ca he entrance ome to our aiin.
is v The entrance to this riverery remarkd to carry us able, and cansta north side ken by mariners. On the, for many never be mi miles, are hwhiing abrute, bleak, and barren, endptly at theills of sand, entrance of ich le acrois about a quarter of a miss. Where the river, wh the south hept, d all rcraggy, and black, the lanound is coad rises abruvered with vat t hea he first glimpse of the seds from the erdure; thus, sea, one is er b whilack. te, the oth The only difficulty attendine (and, indeed, whithe only thingch preventsg the entranc Hokianga fe oe worf the finest harbours in thld) is the brom being onar. This lies m heat he mouth of the river, itsd envelope dtwo miles fro in breaker siddning desting defiance and threat enaction to and foam, ball large ship atter, we empt the passage.
Howev fortunately s which may slipped ovees, om watun damaged, in three-father, r its sandy sid After crossing the bar, no lay in our way, gradand, floatingually into other obstaclea beautiful r loere sailist sight of the sea, and wng up a spiver, we soonacious sheet ich der afte became considerably wir entering i of water, wht; while maje o verdn each side, covered withure to theiestic hills rosr very summupous hea the river, we beheld varidlands stretits. Looking ching into t grath, till dually contracting in wid they becam he water, ande fainter ande in the distance, and all was lost azure of th fainter in the horizon. Tt ocg the scasioned by contemplatine beautiful he excitemen scenes was ted of can by the hurried approachoes, and th soon interrupe extra ordinade in the by the natives who were m.
ry noises ma As the arrival of a ship is at able occurrence exer, greattions are mlways a profiade to be thrd. es pull There were several canoing towarde first on boas us, and fromb a comer of muskets were fired, pliment wm them a nue returned wis; ome alonne of the canoes soon cagside, andith our swive an old chiefrd, Captain Ken who rubbed noses with t, whom h came on boae recognize duaind and shontance; he then went rouok hands w as an old acqith all the st wdown upohich he squatted himself n the deck, rangers, after seeming ve joy first on the triumph of being the board. But ry much to enothers very up crowded withwith us, our decks were them, so soon coming me boarding wa chains andy, others climbing up the bows, and us at the gang finding entr the ect gooy could.
All were in perfd humour, ances where and pleasure!! t bea heir countenances, med in a I had heard a great deal resplendid race of to vmen I was going is it, and thpecting the se few specimcasey so mucionally met with at Sydnh pleased ens I had oc me, that I wanxioem to geus to see a number of tht her, to judas extremely ge whether the proy were finer in their portions th (as a nation) an the Englis it bro was mere accident thatught some h, or whether of their tallespre. tano portioned men before md finest I examined these savages, ed round our dec critiks, with the cal eye of as they crow dan artist; the all thany taller and larger men ourselves; y were gener those of miwerscular, ande broad-chested and mu their limbs ddle height as sinewy ay ha lived been occupied all theirs in laborios though the us employ molou he Amr is lighter than that of terican Indients.
Their can, their featd re profgular, their hair is in ausion of bures small aneautiful curlsat nd lank of the Indian is straight a. The disp, whereas thosition of th der and gaie ppears to be full of fun aty, while te New Zealan he Indian is su dullspicious, shy, and I have known Indians in Athe north to the missouth the erable, idiomerica from tic Bote cood thea, and the fierce warrior of Canad gentle and a of Brazil, civilised Per the ins theyr features and complexio are all muuvian, yet inch alike. I o stat diffures altered with the irerent latitub served the irdes; the Chil Ca samnadians being nearly thee, in figureians and the tall, thin, air cl samimate being nearly thee, although nd active, the at the two meretween the ica; while those living bequinoxes extremes of Aare short, fat aouth Seam persuaded that these S Islanders, and lazy.
I though so name of the complexion, still are not same race, early of the slaziness beierisn frotic of the American Indiam north to ng the charact south, while an extrders are laborious in the erne, as the the New Zealir astonishin cnt the Indiarvings prove. The momean tasted ig and minute ntoxicating sour idio left him, he became ant and a toopirits his vail in the hand maost avern. Here they have the utmsion to eves of the whitery kind of “g derely taker ink,” and very often sev us to task wine or stron for indulgi next prora ordinary and debasing pensity, or, g in such an as they call go natiur selves mad;” but bothons are equit, “of makin ally fond of tobacco. The first thing which struc was, that each o wasf these savages armed witk me forciblyh a good must ch box bucof them had also a cartoukled round sket, and mo their waists, all o had cartridges, and those wh fired their filled with bpieces from aref covully cleaned the pans, ered the lo the canoes ccks over witry rure placag, and put them in a sece in their ch a piece of danoes.
Ever ha count of ts read Captain Cook’s ache natives y person whoof New Zeal as hich has take tonished at the change wn place sinand would bece his time, ngd have terri of a single musket woul fied a who when the firile village. As we sailed up the river vhe throng of sav sucages increased toh a degree ery slowly, tthat we coulve, on, they and, to add to our confusi gave us “d scarcely moa dance of wdiping so faring on one spot, and stamously that Ielcome,” stan really feare hahich our ve stove in the decks, wlady passed they would ngers were ove, each man as when the dance began proceed edbliged to lea to strip him cug the stom indispensable amonm selves, self naked, a We came to an anchor off e called Pakanae chie, where twofs of consea native villag quence cam hoof a con soon cleared our decks siderable ne on board, wumber. We ntiong then to these chiefs, admittim into the cpaid great atteabin, etc., aeffe, and ect of lessening the nois bringing and it had the bout some kmonued on ngst those who still conti deck.
The nind of order aames of thee M they weroetara and Akaeigh, ande the headsse chiefs wer of the villag whey werhich we had anchored. Te well knoe opposite town to our caokere accu their language. They westomed toptain, who sp the society alsth theo to transact business wim; and as th of Europeans, ey were flax hhe captog merchants, they and tain talked, timber, and over the statets wer during the evening. Theye clothed ie of the markn mats, calle Th at supe ladies joined our party per, and wd Kaka-hoos. e spent a vere who both ith our savage visitors, w behaved iy cheerful timn as polite a a ted gen manner as the best educatlemen cound respectfulld have donng em into manners so ingratiated th the good oe; their pleasipinion of tht held be ry all declared “they woueally very e ladies, that handsome mces en i were not tattooed, “f their fa The next day we received r. and Mrs. Butle peor, English pie, who ha visit from Mad taken up te ading, and here for the purpose of tr we returne heir residence! with the ming ith us, and our female passengers w leaving th on shore, takem in chargeer.
ough the I determined to stroll thr village, wh of Mrs. Butlich is, in fac of toge rude huts, huddled ther wit hot, a collectionut system orocery desk leaves and weeds of evcription we regularity. Dre growing 11 rplaces act uound them, and in many ally overt ouxuriantly alpping the hing with a do more than four feet high, or way aboouses, few beut two feet, of at this seas them were inhabited, as on of the y Scarcely anyear the great po the pulation prefer living in open air to er part of the remaining i sm n thoky ovens of houses, eir small, I had not rambled far befor a scene which f me orcibly reminded of the savae I witnessed ge country in wn of charas, and the great alter atioacter and n which I the customs a feill app make. The sight to me so ailing was w days’ sail w that of the reun roasted, and man body which had bee a number mains of a hof hogs and arlin was morg and feasting upon it!
Ie shocked dogs were sn than surprisbeeer of the n informed of the charact New Zealaed, for I had nders long bval com amongst them; still, the ing sudden efore my arrily and unexn a sick sight like this completely ened me opectedly up of rambling, at do Mr. ay, and I hastened back t Butler’s, et least for thaager to inquirtic cataulars of the horrid strophe, re into the pa That gentleman informed ght of the arrival chie of our ship, af had set ome that the nine of his koes) nd plan to watch a piece of grouted with thokies (or slave kumara, oo, gs comin order to prevent the homitting der sweet potatpredations uoor app lad, delighted with the earance of pon it. The pour vessel, nt uo an ancpon observing her come thor than up was more int eon guarding pr hogs to ramoperty, and suffered the ble into the his master’s plantation, oonn the mid made dreadful havoc. 1st of this tr where they sespass and ners resu his master arrived. Thelt was certeglect of ordain; he instae unw on tfortunate boy with a bio he head frondy killed thm his stone ornd the dered a fire to be made, a body to be hatchet, then dragged to ias r t, woasted and consumed.
here it w It was now time to return o we walked dow thatn to the beach for purpose, bn board, and ut it was qui an hund the boat was full two dred feet ote low water, ff. She lay a Ion whig, slimy, muddy flat, andle we weret the end of a debating homative chieanage to get to her, the nfs took up w we should the females as n, and though they were childre, in spite of in their arms, all their bluon the boas trances, carried them to t and place shes and remd them safeleemey the ning to enjoy the task. Th returned ay in it, each snd gave us lkin their bacg as easily with us upon ks as if we a passage, wahad been no so care not to s many muskets. We took hock the fe heavier thanelings of theettiy so latelng them know the tragedy acted in females by lthe village, m bf theiy telling them that one or carriers wor horrify the as the murd ha mad ve been difficult to havee them belerer! It would ieve that suckiow had so lng and good-natured fellately imbruh a noble -looed his hand of sina fellow creature, the blood We had now been lying heand the curiosity not of the people did diminish, nre two days, or were our numly comerous. Parties were houring up and visitors less down the rieir nd the respects to our captain, are port of thver to pay there being nuengeased theiers on board greatly incrr desire to merous passhold intercou.
Theo maky all appeared anxious te themselvrse with us. es useful, swoosisting the d for our cook, others assteward, inome chopping order to get be bro left on the plates, others ught small what might presents of fll a excvailed themselves of any use to get oish; in fact, an board; yet dinfusion atteg the crowd, and the connding their, notwithstan movements, arct them. Theely any thieving amongsy have see there was sen the detestat isd the held in by Europeans, an injury it doion that theftes to trade, ons off. equence, nearly left it None but tand have, in che meanest wo at the practise it, and they do srisk of thei slaves will nor lives; for, ie proact, and the charge is ved againstf caught in th them, their of heaf! ds are cut Standing on the spot from described the ab felt ove prospect, I fully convi which I haven ced of the indhe reguustry of these savages. Tlarity of th frugality and eir plantatiordeon their with which they carry r various wns, and the oorks, differ mo Soust of their brethren in theth Seas, as greatly from here the chifam laboilies set the example of ur; and whefs and their en that is th can villa refuse to toil. Round the ge of Pakae case, none nae, at one ese cult en above 200 acres of ivated land glance is to b, and that noned dead up, but well worked an red; and wt slightly tur hen the bad nool with the is is considered, together r limited kess of their tnowledge of heirok upo persevering industry I Ion as truly a agriculture, tstonishing.
The New Zealanders have ere a wise custo gream, which prevents at deal of westablished haste and conenenter a gorally preserves to the plaod crop, infusion, and g return for t sow the groing; namely, as soon as und is finishe trouble of hed, and thet is red sacr tabooed, that, is ren deed, by men seed sown, i appointed fe, a ovend it is death to trampler or disturbor that servic any part of ed utili ground. The wisdom and ty of this rthis consecrategulation ms tor usef every one. But, howeveul this taboust be obviouo system is, it to ais a great inconvenience stranger w to the native sho is rambliouse the ntry, for if he does not ugreatest cang over the cution, and pre, serihe may get himself into aous dilemmocure a guida before his ove the caser, which had nearly been with our rambles be party this dascense of iding a hill, for the purponspecting ay. We were a New Zealann tie boyon the summit, when a lit joined ourd fortificatio party, either sity fish, or in hopes of getting a- hook from out of curio us a thing rect as we ontinually asking for; bu had a man the natives a with us who guauch regage fluendy, we did not mrd the boy spoke the lans guidance, it impspeedily became of greatortance. Wthough to us e were takin to he top of tmake a quick ascent to the hill, whg a short cut, en the litde facintery of horror. Our rpreter ask ellow uttered ed him whathen rward, and he pointed his finger fo told him to he meant, w look, for ths taired us, booed.
We did as he des but beheld e ground wa nothing part sho tree wed us, in one of thes, among ticular, till he he branches, hid not mak of something, but we coue out whata large bunc it was. This was und the body of a chief, then er going the, he told us, process of n, prch proevious to interment, whicess is witn decompositioessed by me for are per that purpose, who alonemitted to apn appointed proach the und hat, had all round is tabooed, so t it not been spot. The gro for the interur cert young guide, we should ainly have ference of obeen placed tres quesing situation; and it is as tion if our in a most dis ignorance os wd a suffould have been considereicient excuf their customse for our of fence. The top of this hill was lev, and was capabl seve of containing eral hund reel and squared warriors. I sled by opes all round, and fortifi stockades it was cut inton every dire cene natidered it impregnable. Thves assuredtion, which r me its stren of rrior Honten tried. The famous wagi had attagth had been eked it sever ha with gread always been defeated t loss. Aftal times, buter inspecting tion adm, which excited our iration, we this fortifica proceeded illagll. Neae at the bottom of the hirly the wh through the vole of the in he We ente out working in the fields.
red several abitants wer of their habfou expnd all their property osed and uitations, and nguarded. Ekets prize abo and powder, which theyve every thiven their musng, were opectery havion, so little idea of robbe they amoen to our inspngst themselhegs roaming at lare are many hogs and dorge througves. But as th their villag ver dwey careful to fence their llings rounes, they are d with wickreserations of tve them from the depredhese animaler work, to ps; and as thextrry mucemely low, they have veh the appee houses are arance of birbbises are t hutches. Their storehou generally pd cages or ralaced upon eet ooed or cfrom the ground, and tabonsecrated poles, a few f. Great taste ard orne displayed in carving anamenting th and ingenuity ese deposit od them, whirawings from several of ch were enries. I made tirely covereg; at grond some good attempts aups of figurd with carvines, as large y se art howed the dawning of th of sculpture as life, plainl amongst th the alanders in t attempts of the New Zehat art are qem. Many of uite as good, th havan various specimens Ie seen of th, if not bettere first effort Egs of yptians. the early Painting and sculpture are dy admired by t peohese rude pie. Every both arts grea house of conord, and the inamented and embellisher canoes hasequence is ve the most labored upon the ate workmanship bestowm. minute and e Their food is always eaten askets, rudely w flaxoven of green; and as thout of litde bey generally or g thes their next meal, they hane baskets oleave some fn sticks or pare avi ready to eat again.
Thus llage preserops, till they nts a very sianc stice, as it is stuck full of ks, with vangular appearrious kinds ogi howng from them. This plan, ever, is thf baskets hane most ration be eata adopted, as none of their bles can bal that coulde left on the ey w the hog ould become the prey ofs and dogs ground, or th. In the course of our long raiced many prett havy little huts, someing neat gamble we not rdens all rountede hou with fruits and corn. Onse which wnd them, plae saw was bf wages to Porho had made several voyt Jackson, uilt by a chieand it was remfo highrtable dwelling. It had a door, whially a very coch we couldt s room wastooping, and in a separate constructe enter withoud a bed, afte of d like one on ship- board. He hawise a largr the pattern e sea-chest ihe polikey of which (highly shed) was n his house, thung round no our walrnament. In the course of k we came his neck as ato a spot onp of sun old people were sitting ning thems which a grouelves, and thly rem all rose to welcome us. I arked one ey immediate amongst thed, f feeble limbrom his silvery locks ands, to be vem who seemery old. I askg ohe rem ther questions, whether embered Ced him, amonaptain Cook did Captain Fur not, but well recollected neaux, and. He said he was one of ch cboat’s creut off and massacred his w; and from the party whi other infor I rrtion to heceived I believe his asseave been cmation which orrect.